Letter from Peru # 8
Dear Friends... Queridos Amigos,
No. 8 means I'm now into my eigth month and the time seems to be speeding
up as the weeks go by. I've never been a great fan of "slow time"
so am quite happy that time passes quickly... and they do say it's a good
indication of being happy in your surroundings!
The rains have well and truly stopped in Frias and as the temperature goes
up so do the number of parties, music and general noise level. My pet obsession:
the NOISE LEVEL in Frias. But honestly, if and when you ever find yourself
in Frias, you'll say "he's right... how do you live with this?!".
If you were in the UK (which most of YOU are) you'd have no hesitation making
a complaint to the police or local council. The problem in Frias is that
the police and the council (muncicipalidad) are usually, if not the instigators,
at least in the thick of the action. Please don't get the wrong impression
- all things becomes more bearable with time... and in fact most of the
parties I'm happily present at and have done more dancing in 8 months than
in my entire previous 40 yrs of existence.
A lovely celebration took place on Sunday 14th. The "Dia de las Madres"
(Mothers Day). In true Peruvian style it began with a patriotic moment in
the Plaza de Armas and the National Anthem being sung... led by a large
contingent of mothers in place of honour. Then Mass followed by lunch for
1000 (yes one thousand!!) mothers care of Manuel the Mayor ... and all cooked
in our back garden, starting at 3 am. Our back garden seems to be the hot
favourite for cooking HUGE quantities of food. Maybe they hope for some
sort of "multiplication miracle" to keep the cost down!! Then
the mums danced and danced and kept dancing through the afternoon and the
drink flowed and more drink and eventually giggling and happy they wended
their way home. Great to see the mums tipsy - usually the prerogative of
the menfolk here!
 The
mums really let their hair down - once they'd removed their Sombreros...
Now the rains have stopped and the ground is dry we can begin our 6 months
of visits to the many communites in the campo. You may remember that the
parish is BIG by UK standards - we have around 100 rural communites awaiting
their one annual visit from the priest with the celebration of Mass and
everything else that goes with the visit (blessings, visiting the sick,
baptisms, confessions, meetings, shared lunch and the obligatory football
match ). The roads have almost all been made unusable by 4 months of daily
heavy rains, but the diggers are out in force and the roads already looking
in good shape. Having said that most of the parish is only, even in the
dry months, ever accessible by foot or mule.
The road to San Jorge before the digger got to work!
Personally I love a good walk but it's tough going at times. The distances
are great and so much time seems to be spent going up steep hills and mountain
sides. I know they say "what goes up must come down" but sometimes
we just seem to keep going UP and UP, occasionally coming across a snake
on the path or even a giant tarantula. The one below had already gone to
"wherever tarantulas go when they die" but still gave me a bit
of a shock. Look closely and you can even see exaclty the time / date of
this close encounter!!
What hairy legs you have...
Last sunday (21st) we headed off in 4 teams to tackle the highest part of
our parish - the Meseta Andina or simply Los Altos (The Heights) as it's
known locally. Most of the people in Frias only know it by reputation even
though it's so to speak "on our door step". My good friends, the
young vlounteers from the US accompanied us. With me were Brenden &
Katie, while Ellen & Roger made their way with Sr Palepa. After all
the rains the wide open plains of the Meseta were breathtakingly beautiful,
full of wild flowers, flowing streams and incredibly happy looking (well
fed) animals. We spent 4 days / 3 nights visiting different communities.
The walking was hard but invigorating and the reception and hospitality
wonderful in each place. Many of the folk have never left the Meseta - never
seen a TV or had contact with any of the 21st Century technology that is
so much part of most people's lives. The rythm of life is probably unchanged
for generations and generations. There's NO NOISE (he says excitedly!!)
and the people are relaxed, humble and generous. The staple diet is pototaes
of different shapes and sizes. Popular is the "okka", small and
sweet. Also tortillas and fresh cheese, along with different beans and pulses
. To drink there's regular supplies of delicious manzanilla tea (camomile)
made with fresh flowers straight from the garden into the pot ... sorry
if it's beginning to sound like "Rick Stein in Peru" but when
you're walking hours each day at 3600 metres you do get a wee bit peckish!!
... tucking into the shared meal
...reinforced with potatoes and fresh camomile tea we move on
The people in the Meseta are very poor and humble and live lives of the
utmost simplicity. But there's a quality of life, of community and family
and a pride in their land and animals that is very touching. They have so
little but what they have they generously share. Their lives are lived in
real commune with nature and they gratefully recognise the hand of God in
the "blessing of the land".
Sitting with the family preparing breakfast - tortillas, cheese and you
guessed... potatoes!
Our kind hosts on Night # 3
I can't send a letter without including a couple of lovely "children
pics". The meseta children are sweet, innocent, and full of laughter
and have all sorts of unusual names - we even met a little "Bill Clinton"
on our travels!!
 
Don't be shy girls - nice big smiles for the camera!
I'm down here in Chulucanas for a couple of days and then on wednesday head
back into the mountains to visit 4 more of our communties, this time accompanied
by Roger and Ellen. Then in 2 weeks time my dear parents arrive for a few
weeks visit which I'm so looking forward to - seeing them and having a little
break. So the next letter will be sometime at the end of July. Until then,
as ever, please pray for me and the good people here. Amidst the hardship
of life here there are always smiles and laughter (and parties), but underneath
life really is very TOUGH for the majority. Next Sunday Peru returns for
the second time to try and vote for their next President - the first, a
month ago, being indecisive. Pray for a good new government that will be
close to the needs of all Peruvians, but especially close to the poor and
most needy who make up the vast majority of the country. Take care and Dios
les bendiga!
Con mucho afecto,
Kevin
PERU POSTAL ADDRESS: Casa de la Fraternidad, Calle
Cuzco 381, Chulucanas, Piura, PERU
For
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